THE GRAINLINE OF THE FABRIC ｜Tips and Tricks to Identify It
When sewing, understanding the fabric’s grainline is an important step to ensure stability and the proper drape of your garments. But what exactly is the grainline? And why is it so crucial to respect it?
What is the fabric’s grainline?
A fabric is made of two types of threads:
Warp threads : Vertical, also called the grainline. grainline.
Weft threads : Horizontal, also known as the cross-grain. contre-fil.
The grainline grainline corresponds to the most stable direction of the fabric. It runs along the length of the fabric and is parallel to the selvage. The selvage is the clean edge on each side of the fabric.
Finally, the fabric’s bias, which is diagonal to the grainline, is naturally a bit stretchy. No matter the fiber content, fabric will always be more flexible and stretchy in this direction. This is referred to as mechanical stretch.
Why is it so important to respect the grainline?
Each direction of fabric has specific properties:
The grainline is the most stable.
The cross-grain is slightly more flexible.
The bias is a bit stretchy
If you don’t cut the different pieces of your pattern in the same direction, it could affect the stability and drape of your garment.
Additionally, some fabrics shrink differently in length and width during washing. If your pieces don’t respect the grainline, you might face unpleasant surprises after the first wash.
Respecting the grainline allows you to:
Ensure stability: : Clothes will better maintain their shape over time.
Guarantee a harmonious drape : Pieces will have a uniform appearance.
Minimize errors: : This avoids unpredictable distortions or asymmetrical shrinkage after washing.
💡 Astuce : Pour couper du denim ou tout autre tissu épais, je recommande une bonne paire de ciseaux. 👉 Discover my favorite scissors here.
How to identify the grainline?
On a sewing pattern, an arrow indicates the grainline direction. To respect this guideline, align the arrow parallel to the fabric’s selvage. Don’t forget: all pieces of your pattern should be oriented in the same direction!
Screenshot
If you’re working with a fabric scrap without a selvage: :
Look at the fabric’s weave and stretch the fabric in three directions (length, width, diagonal):
o The most stable direction is the grainline.
With a bit of intuition (and practice!), you’ll easily identify the grainline.
A note on recycling jeans
When upcycling jeans, you can also follow grainline for better result in the product you are making.
On jeans, the grainline usually follows the length, from the waistband to the hem..
When sewing, understanding the fabric’s grainline is an important step to ensure stability and the proper drape of your garments. But what exactly is the grainline? And why is it so crucial to respect it?
What is the fabric’s grainline?
A fabric is made of two types of threads:
The grainline grainline corresponds to the most stable direction of the fabric. It runs along the length of the fabric and is parallel to the selvage. The selvage is the clean edge on each side of the fabric.
Finally, the fabric’s bias, which is diagonal to the grainline, is naturally a bit stretchy. No matter the fiber content, fabric will always be more flexible and stretchy in this direction. This is referred to as mechanical stretch.
Why is it so important to respect the grainline?
Each direction of fabric has specific properties:
If you don’t cut the different pieces of your pattern in the same direction, it could affect the stability and drape of your garment.
Additionally, some fabrics shrink differently in length and width during washing. If your pieces don’t respect the grainline, you might face unpleasant surprises after the first wash.
Respecting the grainline allows you to:
💡 Astuce : Pour couper du denim ou tout autre tissu épais, je recommande une bonne paire de ciseaux. 👉 Discover my favorite scissors here.
How to identify the grainline?
On a sewing pattern, an arrow indicates the grainline direction. To respect this guideline, align the arrow parallel to the fabric’s selvage. Don’t forget: all pieces of your pattern should be oriented in the same direction!
If you’re working with a fabric scrap without a selvage: :
Look at the fabric’s weave and stretch the fabric in three directions (length, width, diagonal):
With a bit of intuition (and practice!), you’ll easily identify the grainline.
A note on recycling jeans
When upcycling jeans, you can also follow grainline for better result in the product you are making.
Discover my kit of essential sewing supplies for beginners here 👉
Ready for your first project?
Make a scrunchie! It’s a simple tutorial that will allow you to put your new knowledge into practice. 😊
See you soon!
Ariane xo